What It’s Like to Dive with Minke Whales on the Great Barrier Reef

There are whales everywhere I look: within arm’s reach, in all directions—and checking me out with their huge eyes as they glide silently past.

Mesmerized by one coming directly toward me, I almost leap out of the water when I realize another whale is casually swimming between my legs.

These characterful whales seem to work in groups as well, with more confident whales showing the cautious ones what to do while we snorkelers bob on the surface.

Arching my back, I maneuver out of the way of yet another curious whale and admire the bright-blue ocean around me.

Great Barrier Reef diving couldn’t get any better than this.

Long known for its colorful dive sites and huge size, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef attracts divers from around the world. Yet few people realize this famous dive destination is also the only place in the world where you can encounter and swim with dwarf minke whales.

These 26-foot-long whales spend the majority of their time in Antarctica and migrate to the Great Barrier Reef’s warm waters to overwinter each year. Unlike many whales, dwarf minkes are known to actively seek human contact despite there being no obvious reason or incentive to do so.

For just two months of the year, Mike Ball Expeditions offers three-, four- or seven-night fly-dive minke whale expeditions aboard the Spoilsport liveaboard to meet these enigmatic whales.

My own trip began with a stunning low-level flight from Cairns to Lizard Island, where Spoilsport was moored, from which I discovered the sheer size of the Great Barrier Reef. By the time we landed, I’d already spotted a humpback whale, green sea turtles and even a manta ray from the air.

Boarding Spoilsport, fellow guest Tanya built up my anticipation, relaying the previous four-day trip had been incredible, with numerous whales encountered. I later found out guests had seen more than 100 individual minke whales the week before, and spent 32 hours in the water with them, making it the best Mike Ball whale expedition to date.

In addition to bringing passengers up close with whales, these unique expeditions offer diving at some of the Outer Great Barrier Reef’s best-known sites.

Each day at sea began with cruise director Kerrin’s cheery wake-up song, followed by whale encounters and open-deck diving at iconic sites such as Gotham City, Cod Hole, Lighthouse Bombie and Crack A Jack.

For colorful corals and huge shoals of vivid fish, the Crack A Jack dive site is a winner. This pinnacle is teeming with life, including tiny fingernail-size pygmy seahorses.

Jumping in the inky water at Gotham City one evening, I was immediately surrounded by jacks and trevallies hunting by the light of my torch. And it was hard to keep track of the endless parade of whitetip and gray reef sharks darting along the reef.

In three days, I spent countless hours in the water with groups of up to 15 whales, met diver-size potato cod and watched as gray reef and bull sharks passed below.

As we completed our safety stop at Crack A Jack one day, a dwarf minke whale drifted past. In total, we saw 96 whales on our expedition.

It’s fair to say that after a champagne barbecue party on our last night I was tempted never to return to land.

DIVERS GUIDE

When to Go: June and July only

Dive Conditions: Water temperature ranges from 71 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (22-24°C) during June and July. There are minimal currents and low swell unless a storm is passing through.

Operator: Mike Ball Dive Expeditions’ Spoilsport liveaboard. This purpose-built liveaboard has a twin-hull design to minimize motion sickness and a large dive deck with dedicated camera tables. There are 14 cabins (12 en suite), a comfortable lounge, main dining area and spacious sun deck, plus two large RIBs.

Experience Needed: None for snorkeling with the whales. Open Water certification or equivalent for scuba diving, with no minimum logged dives needed.

Price: From $1,372 USD

Travel Tips:

• Take a 5 mm wetsuit, and think about bringing a rash vest or shortie to layer on top if you get cold because you may be in the water snorkeling for many hours at a time.

• The sun in Australia is very strong, even in winter, so take a good reef-safe sunscreen with you. Local brand MooGoo is a popular and effective choice.

• If you’re not a diver and the whales are elsewhere, snorkeling the reefs is definitely worthwhile. Numerous shoals of colorful fish light up the shallow reef tops, and the water visibility makes it easy to observe the reefs and divers below.

MORE: Lessons Learned from 25 Years Diving the Great Barrier Reef