St. Kitts - The Life Authentic I'm standing on the "far side" northern coast of St. Kitts, between the towns of Dieppe Bay and St. Paul's. Fields of untended sugar-cane sweep across the horizon, pockmarked by abandoned sugar plantations, their mills and outbuildings now all quiet. Across the water, I can see the profile of neighboring Statia. There's not another soul in sight. Just me, the lovely view and the inviting Caribbean breeze. I've wandered out to this coast to dream; to wonder how it would feel to awaken each day to this view. St. Kitts sits at the edge of the diver's world. Sugar cane once ruled the economy and the daily flow of life on this island, so if you have arrived in St. Kitts with a mask and fins, you've found it by reputation or accident. A couple of years ago, the government underwent a seismic shift and devoted the entire economy to tourism. The sugar cane was left to its own devices, and only the wind and sun moved through the fields. I feel like I've found my own secret corner of the world, uncrowded and intact. Of all the places I know, this is the one island to think seriously about investing in property and going expat. Ownership is fairly easy and the possibility of finding an authentic island paradise with untrammeled diving has become a rare commodity this close to the United States.
And while sugar cane oiled the machinery of St. Kitts, under the water the ocean realm grew and changed and evolved and waited. For the past three days, I've explored the MV River Taw, an ex-interisland cargo ship sunk in 1981 that has become a haven for lobster, morays, turtles and octopuses; Monkey Shoals, one of the Caribbean's most pristine reef areas; and the MV Talata. All of St. Kitts' dive sites see relatively few divers. About an hour earlier, I'd squeezed into a sunken van near the Talata with a 4-foot barracuda. It didn't move, I didn't move. Afterward, I followed a chain that led to the Talata. Snapper, eels and squirrelfish rule the shadows of the wreck. There was just me and one other diver. I like St. Kitts, I keep telling myself. I'm both surprised and delighted to feel like I've stumbled upon one of the Caribbean's last untrammeled dive experiences. The people of St. Kitts have done everything to make me feel welcome, too. Everywhere I go, I'm taken on an impromptu mini-tour of an interesting and cool corner of the island. But mostly, I simply feel instantly welcome because this is an island of homes and families. St. Kitts, despite the new quest for tourism, has steadfastly held onto its core. And, as I stand on the far edge of the island, looking out over the sea, I begin to believe in St. Kitts and that the sweetest of all dreams could come to life and that a field of sugar cane, the warm Caribbean and an island in the sun could become the view from my home. Quick Guide For both diving and land tours, stop by PADI Resort pro divers (prodiversstkitts.com), based conveniently near the Ocean Terrace Inn at Fisherman's Wharf in Basseterre. On the property of the Bird Rock Beach Hotel, you'll find PADI Resort dive st. kitts (divestkitts.com). Both shops visit all of St. Kitts' top reefs and wrecks, all within a 30-minute ride; courses are also available. For an all-inclusive stay, check out the 18-acre royal st. kitts hotel & casino and kenneth's dive center (royalstkittshotel.com). Find more information through St. Kitts' official tourism site (stkittstourism.kn). Learn about residency, citizenship by investment and business opportunities by visiting St. Kitts Real Estate (stkittsrealestate.net or stkittsrealty.com). Expatriate information can be found at escapeartist.com.