Getaways: Caribbean Live-aboards

Carib Dancer, Bahamas

“Want to dive the blue hole?” asks Capt. Dennis. Fourteen excited divers exchange skeptical looks on board the Carib Dancer, which weaves its way from Nassau to the Exuma Cays and back over the course of a week.

“A little far from Belize, aren’t we?” I pipe up. Dennis, with a mischievous look in his eyes, replies, “Not as far as you think.” Evidently, the Bahamas sports its very own blue hole.

The week’s signature locations in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park are sprinkled through the island chain, which stretches some 120 miles. Amberjack and Danger reefs host both jacks and sharks, and they approach as soon as the boat is secured at the mooring line. In addition to the action midwater, these marine protected areas boast healthy populations of grouper and lobster, all large and relatively unafraid of divers.

Despite plentiful sea life, by day three we’re still curious about this mysterious blue hole. Capt. Dennis, however, is in no rush to share the secret and enjoys the suspense on board the boat. So we dive gorgeous swim-throughs, caves and crevices. Cracked Coral Head, Cathedral and Pillar Wall are decorated with colorful elephant ear and tube sponges, and we gaze upon schools of Atlantic spadefish, giant barracuda and sea turtles as they swim by.

By the fourth day of the weeklong journey, there was still no blue hole. Was Capt. Dennis just pulling our legs? I keep pressing him for an answer, and he responds: “Not before we make a wreck dive.” We descend onto the wreck of the Austin Smith, a 90-foot Bahamian Defense Force Cutter, which sits in only 60 feet of water. Joining us are some friendly angelfish and grouper, swimming in and out of the old structure.

Finally, the announcement comes — the now-infamous Lost Blue Hole is next. A perfect azure circle in the calm waters appears. The rim is surrounded by coral heads at 40 feet; at 80 feet, there are plentiful lobster-filled crevices and overhangs. Gazing up on ascent, a huge loggerhead turtle swims by while at least a dozen small blacktip reef sharks dart in and out of the opening.

“Thought I was telling you a tall tale?” asks Capt. Dennis later. We all just return a satisfied glance. From the dive deck of the Carib Dancer, the Bahamas really does have it all. — Michele Westmorland

For More Info >> Carib Dancer

My Ann, British Virgin Islands

A bloom of saucer-shaped moon jellyfish is bobbing near the water’s surface when we giant stride in off West Dog Island — my photographer buddy settles underneath the jellies; he’s trying to capture their delicate, translucent domes gorgeously lit by sunlight. Then we descend — we’re on our way to Joe’s Cave, a triangular opening in the rock face of the island. A bit of surge greets us as we enter, but it’s worth the two-kicks-forward, one-kick-back finning we do to reach a small chamber that is often filled with glassy sweepers. If it’s just you and your buddy, it makes for a perfect Instagram moment, and you’ll get another photo op once you turn to exit. Light rays filtering down from the crack in the cave’s ceiling illuminate the coral-encrusted walls, and huge boulders are scattered along the bottom. It’s pretty magical.

Outside the cave is a shallow reef known for its intricate underwater topography, like many other sites in the BVI that we’ve been diving from the luxury crewed sailing yacht My Ann. In fact, after we snorkel and poke around at the Baths, a world-famous maze of colossal granite boulders that form grottoes and pools on a Virgin Gorda beach, we realize that many BVI dive sites are submerged versions of this geologic wonder.

Mainly arrayed on either side of the protected waters of Sir Francis Drake Channel, these emerald islands are beloved by yachties for their sail-billowing trade winds, easy-to-navigate waters and scenic anchorages. For divers, sites in the BVI are as varied as the variety of blues found in the Caribbean — lush coral gardens on sloping reefs and mini walls, seamounts that rise from the seafloor, and an underwater armada of sponge- and coral-covered wrecks.

Maybe best of all: I get to experience both sailing and diving aboard My Ann. One photo of the gleaming catamaran was all it took for me to sign up for this unique, all-inclusive live-aboard experience offered by the Moorings, a company that has a fleet of motorboats and sailboats, and specializes in arranging bareboat (skipper-your-own) or crewed vacations. I am doing the latter — both crew members are PADI Instructors who combine cooking gourmet meals, sailing to secluded coves, handing out fluffy towels and mixing Painkillers (a concoction of rum, pineapple juice, orange juice and cream of coconut), and giant-striding in as divemasters on the best sites the BVI has to offer, including formations like Thumb Rock, wrecks like the Rhone off Salt Island and shallow reefs like Cistern Point.

You work hard for your vacation dollars, so why not splurge and treat yourself to a little pampered luxury? — Patricia Wuest

For More Info >> My Ann

Caribbean Explorer II, St. Kitts/Saba

My dive extravaganza aboard Caribbean Explorer II begins at Bobby’s Marina in St. Maarten. After checking in early on the boat, I meet the amiable Capt. Tim Heaton, who greets guests by asking them to remove their shoes. Smiling compliantly as I begin to obey, he issues another gentle order, “And keep them off when walking on the boat, for the rest of the week.”

No shoes? Shirt optional? No problem, I think. As a photographer, I’m a kid in a candy store on the boat. I find large camera-rinse tanks, an oversize camera table and ample recharging stations. This is going to be a fun-filled excursion, I tell myself. What follows is a blur of gourmet meals and snacks, excellent dives (and briefings), and hanging out with some easygoing guests and crew. Convenience is the constant for each day.

The yacht runs a packed itinerary between the tiny Dutch gem of Saba and laid-back St. Kitts and Nevis. Volcanoes played a vital role in the origin of the islands, gifting them with marvelous landscapes and prolific reefs. The trip turns out to be something of a mini cruise, touching all three exquisite islands and offering a chance to do some topside touring as well.

More than 60 percent of tiny, mountainous Saba’s visitors are divers, and it’s easy to see why with this underwater topography. I’ve got three days to frolic in these waters and make the most of it at sites like Diamond Rock, probably the island’s most famous landmark — though it’s in the ocean — and only one of my favorite dive sites.

This underwater pinnacle extends from the ocean floor at about 80 feet, and rises out of the water to some 150 feet. Every imaginable species of sponge creates a stunning palette of color, while the many queen angelfish, squirrelfish, creole wrasse and snappers add more vibrancy to this breathtaking canvas.

Sites off equally laid-back St. Kitts form the second part of our itinerary. We descend onto the wreck of the River Taw, covered with a proliferation of yellow tube sponges, blackball sponges, split-pore sea rods and large sea fans. Next to the wreck lie a sunken bulldozer and the remains of a cargo van, offering great photo opportunities. Yellowtail snappers, sergeant majors, barjack and bluehead wrasse round out the fish life.

That night on board, I feel totally content and think to myself that any diver who wants a change of scenery between three lovely islands would relish a most memorable vacation on the Caribbean Explorer II. And they won’t even have to wear shoes. — Solomon Baksh

For More Info >> Caribbean Explorer II

AT A GLANCE

GETTING THERE

Bahamas

Airport: Nassau International Airport (NAS)
Transfers: Guests responsible
Entry Documents: Passport
Departure Tax: Usually included in airfare
Currency: Bahamas dollar; US$1 = 1 BSD
Water Conditions: Water temps mid-70s to mid-80s; viz between 60 and 120 feet

British Virgin Islands

Airport: Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS)
Transfers: Staff provided
Entry Documents: Passport
Departure Tax: US$20
Currency: U.S. dollar
Water Conditions: Water temps low to mid-80s year-round; viz averages 80 feet

St. Kitts/Saba

Airport: Princess Juliana International Airport (SXM)
Transfers: Provided for additional fee
Entry Documents: Passport
Departure Tax: US$30
Currency: U.S. dollar
Water Conditions: Water temps mid-70s to mid-80s; viz between 75 and 150 feet